Romania - riding the Danube Delta
In September, 2023, we took four adventurous guests who travelled from the United States and the United Kingdom, on a 10-day cycling odyssey of the Danube Delta in Romania. We combined off-road and on road cycling with numerous boat trips in and around the Delta, which is one of the best preserved ecosystems in Europe consisting of hundreds of water inlets and providing a sanctuary for 300 species of birds, 160 species of fish and one of the largest single expanses of reed beds in the world. Here is a day-by-day enconter of what we did! Our guests: David, Susan, Penny and Bengt were great company and endured the ups and downs of self-carry bike touring and we hope to see them again… it was an adventure!
Day 1 - Culsu Barbei
Arriving into Galati we were eager to meet our our ambitious guests taking on this odyssey of the Romanian delta and the far east flat lands. After a meet and greet we packed up our bikes and headed for the ferry. One of our guests was already in our bad books for acquiring a puncture within the first mile, causing us to miss the ferry. All good though because you know what they say, good to get them out the way early! On the other side we got some good miles under the belt and as we arrived at the crossroads we opted for the dirt road route along the Danube… lovely choice! But as the end drew closer for day 1, enter what would become our nemeses for the whole trip - Culsu Barbei! 30+ punctures and a guy trying to explain what culsu barbei was - maybe this was all a dream and a our succulent culsu barbecue was waiting at the finish line. It was anything but that. Culsu Barbei is commonly known in English as the ‘Punture Vine’ …. say no more. With the sun starting to drop we clicked into gear like a well oiled machine, forming a puncture repair convenabelt and before we knew it we had a support vehicle arrive with Lady Cristina’s brother’s uncle’s friend with a car and trailer. Throw in the restaurants bike stand and we were away - and our culsu barbecue had well and truly cooked us.
Day 2 - The Hills
Another sunny day greeted us as well as more punctures. But it was ok because we had the sweet taste of homemade local wine still on our pallets and Cristain (the man) did everything he could to help us. James and Cristian arrived back with all the supplies we needed to combat the Culsu Barbei and we were away. 30km of punchy hills and we arrived in Tulcea. It was then all aboard for a lovely 4-hour trickle down the river to Sfantu Gheorghe where we could get some well earned respite from the last few days.
Day 3 - Sfantu Gheorghe
Penny and Bengt decided to make the most of it and get up for sunrise and we were all envious of the photos! After one stolen bike (stolen by us as we had yet another puncture on one of our bikes!) it was time for a walk to lunch for our four friends, meanwhile we (the guides) went to check out the next day’s route. A no go zone it was decided. After much tooing and frowing we decided on an alternative boat ride back to Marighol. That evening we set off for our evening boat tour… and because our boat guide didn’t have a whole heap of English and we had no Romanian it was down to the ‘bird man’ Bengt to point out what we were seeing.
Day 4 - The delta
The Delta is a magnificent place for birdlife, reed beds and beach. Our boat left at noon out to the heart of the delta. Again Bird man did his thing and to be fair everyone’s bird knowledge started to come to light. The narrow canals, expansive lakes and numerous birds with 1 solitary pelican ensured a varied trip around this beautiful biodiverse waterway. After our boat tour, it was just 16km left of riding on this day which meant an easy day on the saddle. Hmmm maybe not. The 2.5km stretch of dirt at the end of the day with a serious head breeze stunned us all! Thankfully this his was eased by a dip in the pool and our 17yo waiter/proprietor/manager/barman/ and all round excellent kid. When he got his tip he just about fell over… it was lovely!
Day 5 - Turbot on the table
Our longest day of the tour and it has to be said all riders were amazing, smashing out the distance to lunch with ease - by themselves! Yes James had been Culsu Barbeid yet again. Countless punctures and because he was left behind, Alex went back to find out what the story was - 10km back it must be said. But when the boys got on the road again it was smooth sailing to lunch where Turbot was served. This was an absolute feast caught and cooked right by the waters edge! A taxi ride was already organised for the girls and the 4 boys set off into the sun. Alex then got Culsu Barbeid and limped into Jurilovca 15mins behind. Estimates for our journey time to Gura Port were considerably blown out of proportion by our driver, Constantine who insisted we stopped the boat for beers - for himself as welll! Some traditional dancing on display in the evening and the day was done.
Day 6 - The unknown road
How were we going to get to Vadu? After another test run venturing out from Gura there was a potential option to ride on an unknown road. 4 of us braved our souls and hopped on the saddle for 20kms of dirt where there was beautiful scenery in the wilderness across the delta plains. Meanwhile James and Susan chose an easier route option but were still having dealings of their own and after going from restaurant to restaurant to find a taxi, their man, on holidays from London was found. Later on James joined the group and as we peddaled the long straight road across the ‘marching lands’, you got the sense David was in his element and we were certainly educated by the war history of this land. Arriving at the hotel Susan was smiling ear to ear and you could tell our host Titi had made her feel so welcome. Amazing what he has created at his botique hotel… a little heaven in the middle of nowhere!
Day 7 - Bonfish baloney
The easiest bike riding day of the tour saw us head out on tarmac for the entire journey. It was easy riding along an established bike path much of the way… finally!! As we rolled into Constanta we had heavy hearts that our delta tour of Romania was over. Roll on Bulgaria! Oh and for the record Bonfish restaurant in Contanza was baloney!
Day 8 - Bulgaria bound
The day started with a quick trip to the corner market for breakfast goodies and picnic supplies. At 10.45am, with tyres inflated, we headed to the train station. A convenient ramp led down to the access to the platforms but we then had to schlep the bikes with panniers up a double flight of stairs. Oops! Change of platform. Back down stairs and back up a different set. The bikes finally stowed in first class and us stowed in second! At Ciulnita, we said a fond farewell to Alex and crossed the platform for the train to Calarasi. Upon disembarking the train Penny & Bengt discovered they each had a fat culsu barbei thorn imbedded in their rear tyres. Poor James spent yet another hour patching and changing tyres. Finally off on the last short leg to the ferry across the Danube where the ticket office doubled as a wine shop. It was a short crossing on a packed ferry with a monster queue and 25 minute wait at passport control into Bulgaria. We rode a great bike path to Drustar Hotel in Silistra where we were greeted by an Ersatz suit of armour in the spacious lobby. We finished the day with a wonderful gin & tonic on the terrace overlooking the Danube as the sun set.
Day 9 - Lazy Day
A lazy day. The boys headed off back to Romania for a 20k tour of the countryside above Silistra through vineyards to Ostrov while the girls explored the park with its medieval ruins and contemporary statues, toured the vegetable market and ambled through town. Pizza was for lunch at one of the town squares and then a wander through the small but fascinating Ethnographic Museum - signage in both Bulgarian and English. More g&t’s on the hotel terrace were had before heading out to a delightful seaside restaurant, Istar, with its very extensive menu. Everything from sushi to fish and meat and pasta. We had particularly delicious grilled green peppers in a garlic, parsley and cheese dressing as a starter. It was a lovely stroll back to the hotel under a nearly full moon.
Day 10 - The end of a true adventure
One last tyre change at breakfast. After that, it was an uneventful ride to the border, return ferry and short ride to Calarasi. Time for coffees and limonadas at a cafe along the river before catching the first train. We had the same lady conductor as on our trip out so James was able to negotiate a good ‘bike fare’. We then had to change trains for Bucharest without acquiring any last barbs and it was a bit of a squeeze to get the bikes on - in true Romanian style. We ate our sandwiches and juicy Bulgarian peaches and crunchy carrots as we watched the countryside give way to the urban landscap of Bucharest, aka “Little Paris”. We exited the Gare de Nord to leave the bikes, and tour guests and intrepid tour leader, James parted ways. The end of a true adventure!
